yes, but if I chose POST and set the body content to JSON it parses the entry incorrectly and generates invalid JSON as soon as you press SAVE. if you go back in and edit it says it is invalid I can confirm from the server side that it is sending invalid JSON, not what was entered. This is a bug. For now I am doing everything with GET requests and passing queries in the URL directly as described.

I was able to implement everything I needed to control my HomeAssistant (via Node-red interpreting the HTTP GET calls) by using a different query for each function added to the IP control device. so to trigger the room for 'Movie Mode' as set in my automation flow I send a GET to "http://localip:1880/endpoint/remote?moviemode=true" and a function takes that query and sends off the required triggers to do that. Then I have a single command for "all off" that is the only active power command configured for all activities, as all my source devices stay on and only the TV/Receiver/subwoofer etc get turned on and off. so when I switch activities only the source changes for example, but if I press the physical OFF key on the remote it sends a command "?turnoff=true" which runs a shutdown sequence. So far this is working well and I will be adding controls and tinkering with it for some time, I have also used this to remap the mostly unused colour buttons on every activity to control the lighting and AC with short presses turning them up or down, and long press turning them on and off entirely. This way i don't need to pass anything in the body text, though it would be good to know what variables we can send and whether its possible to expand on this functionality to automatically generate a set of commands so we dont have to cut/paste dozens of URLs and AUTH headers for each entry. a return API would be good too, possibly to update the name of things on the display with a variable or to add a dummy command into the current activity shortcut list that shows the current temperature for example. So what's missing? well I'd like more images to choose from on the display for the activities, or to select colours for them. I'd like more control over macro timing, as the shortest delay time of 0.5s is too long for things like entering passcodes, but it becomes unreliable when set to zero delay, a 0.2s would be perfect.

I have 2 of these remotes and the scroll wheels failed after only a few months, it's their weakest point. I had one refunded by Sofabaton and the new one failed again shortly after.

PS3 does not support the newer standards of BT HID that the remote uses, you can get a USB IR receiver like FLIRC to control the PS3 with any IR codes you want if required.

It was working previously, but after V41 was installed I had one device appear blank and not function properly so I deleted it and set it up again, but this time it was out of memory, but it had worked before. I need a minimum of 9 devices in the list, preferably 10, however there are duplicates that can share data, for example I have 3 Nvidia Shields and 2 identical DVBT tuners. I think I found a way around this by setting up one device normally, then making a blank device and manually assigning the buttons on the new device from the other, instead of loading another entire device command list. Complete device list I want to implement is: Nvidia Shield (FLIRC IR) Nvidia Shield (FLIRC IR) Nvidia Shield (FLIRC IR) Teac HDB860 Teac HDB860 Foxtel IQ4 Foxtel IQ3 Hisense U9H (TV, only need power button, hidden from list) Anthem MRX720 (Receiver, only need volume, mute and source switching for macros, hidden from list) MhubS 8x8 Matrix (video Matrix, has 8 learned IR codes for switching source to send to the receiver for macros, Hidden from list) Each Shield, Tv Tuner and Satellite tuner have the same IR commands, but need a different input switching macro. So a total of 10 devices would be all I need for full control of the video distribution setup. This is all IR, no Bluetooth.

There is no way to turn the switch on if it is off other than the power button on the device itself. Also Bluetooth is unreliable on the switch for third party devices. If the switch is just asleep you could use a flirc to mimic a wired keyboard and sent keypresses that way.

This is a bug in the communication between remote and app, the data is stored on the remote itself and when the app connects it downloads the setup from the remote but it gets corrupted very easily. this should be an easy fix with some checksumming and local config backups, which I was told are currently being worked on.

A FLIRC can achieve this via IR, you can program any unused IR code from the remote to send a pause/break keypress and it will work, but it could be added as a Bluetooth keyboard code in the future to streamline things.

The u2 does not have the ability for macros to set the active device in the remote. The way I got around this personally which may not work for everyone but works for me is to have macros programmed to the Input select button on every device, I scroll to what I want, hit select source and my gear does its dance to change I puts and settings, leaving the remote on the device page needed.

find the closest similar model, almost all of the Samsung TVs use the same commands and have the same functions. The IR works better than the Bluetooth in most cases keep that in mind.